The Reality Is... Surfing Can Be Frustrating (Sometimes)
Are you new to surfing or have been surfing for years? Here are our top 5 things you will *probably* definitely experience surfing. The reality is you will:
1. Be dumped
2. Be frustrated
There are so many frustrating things about surfing, but we think it is part of the fun. Missing a wave you’ve paddled for. Not being able to stand up when you’ve been trying so hard. Driving to a surf spot for hours to find there’s no waves. Even wriggling into a wet and sandy wetsuit. When you finally do score a great wave, those frustrations fade away.
3. Be scared
4. Nose dive
Sliding face first off the board as it flips up in the air behind you. Acceptance is the first step of the nose diving experience. It’s going to happen quite a lot when you first start surfing. To avoid nose diving, wiggle up and down on your board until you find the sweet spot. You’ll know it when you find it. It will feel just right and chances are the nose will stop submerging under the wave as you paddle. Or try for a faster pop-up to help avoid an unceremonious nose dive. The more you surf, the less it happens, but years later out of nowhere you’ll do a nose dive and end up with a healthy saline nasal flush.
5. Ride your first green wave!