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Nov 21, 2018

Surf Diaries: Bethany Hamilton’s Surf Guide to Tahiti

This past October Bethany Hamilton saw a swell headed to Tahiti and decided she wanted to chase it. She booked flights, got boards prepped and hopped on a plane. Watch her conquer “The Wall of Skulls” inside, then get the exclusive on her personal guide to surfing and exploring Tahiti.

This past October the first big swell of the 2018 season hit Teahupo’o, Tahiti. When Bethany Hamilton spotted it on the charts a week prior, she immediately booked flights, got her boards ready and flew to the island paradise to take on “The Wall of Skulls”. She’d been waiting for the chance to get solid Teahupo’o, and she wasn’t about to miss the opportunity.

"A week or so before the swell hit my brother Tim texted me about the forecast, and it looked amazing..." - Bethany Hamilton

“I was hoping it was a bit bigger to whip a few but it wasn’t. It was a fun challenge to paddle with some of the guys though! I’m always game to go to beautiful Tahiti! It’s such a beautiful and intimidating wave. For me, positioning and direction of swell is super important for catching waves.“

Over the years I’ve learnt that you’ve got to be willing to try the so-called ‘impossible’ and hold true to who you are and what gets you fired up.”

And for Bethany, that’s chasing Teahupo’o.

After the ocean died down and the reef returned to a tranquil paradise, Bethany gave us a call to talk all things Tahiti. Here, you’ll find her personal guide to the island.

Where does Bethany…

I love cruising in the channel just watching Teahupo’o… the amazing rides and the wipeouts! Boating along the coastline is awesome… it’s an incredible view! One of my favourite things to do is jump in the ocean with my mask and fins to check out the underwater world and sea life! And visiting friends, of course!

Local Tahitian dinners don’t get much better! There is a dish call “poisson cru” which is a twist on fish ceviche. It’s made with fresh made coconut milk and it’s amazing!

It’s all about the reefs in Tahiti! I love exploring the different areas and waves!What about…Bethany’s Tahiti Beats?

You make it easy by Jason Andean, Stormy love by ZHU, Here on my own by SwardyAnd her choice of…

Palm Beach One Piece, Mirage Essentials Revo Crop, Mirage Ultimate Mesh One Piece

Want more Bethany?
Stay tuned for the release of her new film, Unstoppable, set to hit theatres sometime next year.