Lately, Luke has been working closely with North Shore legend and seasoned coach, Ross Williams. Normally, they’d be working on strategy, technique and fitness throughout winter - but this year, Luke wanted to bring it back to the fundamentals and surf how he really wants. “We’ve been really working on my approach and mind set going into every single wave. What should I do here, what would have I done in the past… really analyzing everything. The pressure was kind of off this winter, it was great to have that freedom to work on things.”
Luke also took the season to push himself in the larger stuff. Typically known for his world-class air game, Luke wanted to focus on the premiere North Shore spots like Pipe, Haleiwa and Sunset.
“When you’re out there on the big days, you just have to be okay with taking two steps forward, one step back. You go out to Haleiwa… the currents ripping, its 15 ft., pure fear. But you get a couple, survive that session and every day after that gets easier. Go out, rewind a bit, get more comfortable, do it again.”
Whether you’re well-aware of Luke’s talent or this is the first time his name has graced your screen - tap above to watch a relaxed Luke Swanson tear apart his beloved North Shore lineups.
Intrinsic Motivation: the act of doing something without any obvious external rewards.
Edit: Justin Jung